Anti-ageing for beginners Navigating the world of anti-ageing skincare can be a challenge. Not only is the sheer volume of anti-ageing products intimidating, but you also have to determine which ingredients to use, which textures. Basically, curating your anti-ageing skincare routine can be incredibly frustrating. To simplify things, we’ve created a guide to help you find evidence-backed ingredients to address both current and future anti-ageing concerns. Even better, these ingredients also promote overall skin health. What you can expect: What causes ageing skin? Signs of ageing skin What is the best routine for ageing skin? What are the best anti-ageing ingredients? How do you repair damaged skin? Ingredients over the decades What causes ageing skin? Skin ageing is influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic ageing occurs naturally over time as collagen and elastin production decline, leading to thinner, less resilient skin. This progress is largely dictated by genetics and hormonal changes. On the other hand, extrinsic ageing is caused by environmental and lifestyle factors, such as sun exposure, pollution, smoking and poor diet, which accelerate damage to skin cells. Over time, these elements break down the skin’s structure and hinder its ability to repair itself, contributing to signs of ageing. Signs of ageing skin Loss of firmness: skin may droop or sag, most commonly seen in eyelids & jowls around the jawline Fine lines: crow’s feet may collect around the corners of the eyes, around the mouth or on the forehead Wrinkles: more prominent than fine lines, wrinkles are deeper-set folds in the skin that are seen even when the face is relaxed Discolouration or dark spots: pigmented spots may develop, resulting in an uneven skin tone Loss of elasticity: skin no longer bounces back after pinching Sun damage: may result in signs such as dark spots, loss of firmness & fine lines What is the best routine for ageing skin? Cleanse: wash your face in the morning and double cleanse at night to remove all the gunk from the day, including all traces of SPF Exfoliate: apply your leave-on exfoliant after cleansing and toning (toning is optional) – you don’t need to wait for your BHA or AHA to absorb or dry; you can apply any other product in your routine immediately afterwards and if you’ve not used an exfoliant before, we recommend starting slow 3 times per week and adjusting according to what skin can tolerate (some do well exfoliating twice daily, whereas others find that once a day or every other day is the perfect balance) Treat: apply treatments from thinnest to thickest texture, this could look like applying a lightweight serum before applying a retinoid treatment Moisturise: in the morning, apply moisturiser with SPF 30 or higher & allow it to set for few minutes before applying make-up or being exposed to sunlight – at nighttime, complete your routine by moisturising When starting to use anti-ageing ingredients, you might find the “sandwich method” helpful. This involves layering a nourishing serum before a retinoid treatment and then immediately following with a rich moisturiser. What are the best anti-ageing ingredients? Exfoliants like AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid), prompt skin to shed dead, dull layers the way it did when it was younger, resulting in smoother skin with less visibly prominent wrinkles. Using a leave-on exfoliant is a great way to reap the benefits of AHA and BHA. Note: choose BHA if you also struggle with clogged, enlarged pores or oily skin. If you have dry, sun-damaged skin that is also sensitive, consider a lightweight liquid AHA exfoliant with a time-release formula that’s extra-gentle yet still effective. Retinoids You might’ve heard of retinol before and it’s a popular type of retinoid. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives and have long been hailed the “it” ingredients when it comes to anti-ageing because they’re proven to minimise the look of wrinkles, improve uneven skin tone & reignite a feeling of firmness to skin. Retinoids are powerful cell-communicating ingredients. That means that when retinoids are applied to the skin, they latch onto skin cells and tell them to behave as if they were younger. Among other things, retinol contributes to healthier cells, improves the skin’s firmness plus texture and helps the skin function as a barrier. Peptides Peptides are short chains of amino acids and, when they are arranged in specific sequences, they form proteins. Proteins, such as collagen and elastin, are essential for maintaining the skin's structure and elasticity. Without sufficient peptides and proteins, the skin loses its firmness, leading to wrinkles, texture changes and reduced resilience. Therefore, using peptides in skincare is crucial because they signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin. This helps to firm and smooth the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Antioxidants Antioxidants help protect skin from environmental damage such as pollution, UV rays and other harmful factors. They’re an asset in any anti-ageing arsenal and often included in many skincare products, but our favourite way to use them is through concentrated serums. SPF SPF is the anti-ageing ingredient. No amount of retinoid creams (even prescription creams) can repair and stop further damage if you’re not protecting your skin from the sun, every single day. How do you repair damaged skin? Protect your skin from the sun to prevent discolouration from getting worse. Use a broad-spectrum sun cream daily rated SPF 30 or higher. This helps reduce sun damage (dark pigment spots) and post-breakout marks. Opt for products that inhibit pigment production. Ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, acetyl glucosamine and retinol are clinically proven to even skin tone. Never forget to use an AHA or BHA liquid exfoliant daily. Apply the product all over your face (or on the body part in question), not just on the spots. If you’ve never used an AHA or BHA exfoliant, you may notice a quick improvement. Exfoliants help to remove built-up dead skin cells and turn any lacklustre complexion into a glowing one. They also smooth the texture of the skin, unclog pores and help improve the penetration of other skincare products – making them even more effective! Double down on discolouration by combining your exfoliant with products that contain vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids. Ingredients over the decades As we age, our skin's needs evolve, requiring different ingredients and formulations to maintain its health and vitality. Understanding which ingredients to focus on at each stage of life can help you tailor your skincare routine to address specific concerns and prevent premature ageing. Here's a guide to the key ingredients to incorporate into your skincare routine over the decades: 20s Focus on sun protection, lightweight hydration & introducing antioxidants like vitamin C 30s Add retinoids & peptides to maintain firmness & reduce early signs of ageing 40s Incorporate richer moisturisers & targeted treatments for wrinkles & pigmentation 50+ Prioritise deeply nourishing products with advanced formulas like ceramides, peptides & collagen-boosting ingredients