How to exfoliate skin without damaging it

Exfoliation is a key step in maintaining a healthy skincare routine, but doing it incorrectly can lead to irritation and damage. Understanding the right techniques and products for your skin type ensures you achieve a smooth, radiant complexion without harming your skin barrier.

What is exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin to reveal a smoother, more radiant complexion. While our skin naturally sheds dead cells, this process slows down over time due to factors like ageing and sun exposure. This build-up can lead to dull, rough skin, clogged pores and uneven tone. Using a chemical exfoliant helps speed up this natural renewal process and improves overall skin health by increasing cell turnover rate.

Chemical exfoliation uses skin-friendly acids, like AHAs and BHA, to rejuvenate your complexion’s texture, tone and clarity in a surprisingly gentle way. Unlike physical exfoliants, which can be abrasive, chemical exfoliants unglue the bonds holding dead skin cells, allowing them to shed naturally without causing irritation.

Why exfoliating skin is important for your routine

Exfoliating skin regularly helps prevent a range of skin issues, including dryness, rough texture, breakouts and visible signs of ageing. When dead skin accumulates, it can block pores, leading to blackheads, acne and dullness. A well-formulated chemical exfoliant can:

  • Minimise fine lines & wrinkles
  • Brighten uneven skin tone
  • Unclog pores and prevent breakouts
  • Improve hydration levels
  • Enhance the effectiveness of other skincare products

As skin cell turnover slows with age, chemical exfoliation helps regulate this process, keeping your complexion fresh and youthful.

Different types of exfoliants

There are two main types of exfoliants: physical and chemical.

  • Physical exfoliation: Uses scrubs, cleansing brushes, or microdermabrasion tools to manually remove dead skin cells. While some gentle physical exfoliants exist, harsh scrubs can cause micro-tears and irritation.
  • Chemical exfoliation: Uses acids like AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) to dissolve dead skin cells without the need for scrubbing. These exfoliants work more effectively and gently compared to physical exfoliation.

How to use a chemical exfoliant

To maximize benefits and avoid irritation, follow these steps:

  1. Cleanse your face thoroughly.
  2. Apply a toner if needed, then use your chemical exfoliant.
  3. Spread evenly across your face, avoiding the eyelids and the delicate area directly under the eyes.
  4. Follow up with a serum, moisturizer, and SPF in the morning.
  5. Do not rinse off—let the product absorb fully into your skin.
  6. Adjust strength and frequency based on your skin’s response.
  7. Consider using a liquid exfoliant for an easy, effective application.

How often should you exfoliate your face?

Exfoliation frequency depends on your skin type and tolerance:

  • Oily, acne-prone skin: Can typically handle daily use of a BHA exfoliant.
  • Dry, sensitive skin: Should start with 1-2 times per week and gradually increase if tolerated.
  • Normal/combination skin: Can exfoliate every other day or daily with a gentle liquid exfoliant.

Some people benefit from exfoliating twice daily, especially if targeting stubborn clogged pores, rough texture, or advanced signs of aging. However, over-exfoliated skin can lead to redness, dryness, and sensitivity, so start slow and observe your skin’s reaction.

Chemical exfoliant for sensitive skin

If you have sensitive skin, opt for a BHA exfoliant in a low concentration (around 1%). BHA, such as salicylic acid, has soothing properties that help calm redness and irritation while gently exfoliating. If your skin adapts well, you can gradually increase to a 2% BHA exfoliant for enhanced results. Avoid strong AHA exfoliants initially, as they may cause irritation.

Since physical exfoliation can be too harsh for sensitive skin, chemical exfoliants provide a gentler, more effective way to improve skin texture and tone without causing damage.

How to choose the best chemical exfoliant

Choosing the best chemical exfoliant depends on your skin type and concerns:

  • AHA exfoliant: Best for dry and sun-damaged skin, helping with fine lines, dullness, and rough texture, like our 6% Mandelic + 2% Lactic Acid AHA Liquid Exfoliant.
  • BHA exfoliant: Ideal for oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin, as it clears clogged pores and reduces inflammation, like our 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.
  • Combination skin: A balanced exfoliant or alternating between AHA and BHA may work best.

Paula's Choice AHA and BHA exfoliants for different skin concerns

Paula's Choice AHA and BHA exfoliants for different skin concerns.

By understanding how to exfoliate skin correctly and selecting the right product, you can achieve a healthier, smoother complexion without damaging your skin. Regular exfoliation will leave you with a brighter, more radiant look, making it an essential part of any skincare routine.

References for this information:

  • Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, ePublication
  • Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, July 2012, pages 488-491
  • The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, May 2012, pages 32-40
  • Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
  • Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 2007, pages 651-663
  • Clinics in Dermatology, July 2001, pages 460-466
  • Archives of Dermatologic Research, July 1997, pages 404-409
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